Monday, December 27, our last day in the Park. Breakfast buffet at the Lodge, a quick stop at Panther Junction to send off some post cards, and then north to Marathon. We stopped once at the Fossil Bones Exhibit. The time spans -- 70 million years -- are incomprehensible. The fossil bone casts on exhibit were quite like the quartz shaped I had seen in the rocks at Boquillas Canyon, which gives further weight to my idea that they are fossils -- a jawbone, yes, and possibly some ribs.
Arrived in Marathon roughly an hour later, checked in, and fell in love with Captain Shepard's Inn. It is currently for sale (and has been for about 5 years, we were told), so we indulged in a fantasy of buying and opening shop as a B&B -- if only we had a spare half-million and enough capital to see us through until it began to turn a profit -- or more bravado -- or less sense. The place has been fully restored and modernized -- although someone needs to go through with a screwdriver and tighten things up! The bathroom door knob came off in my hand and the one of the screws holding the deadbolt to the door of our room had come out. Nothing that can't be fixed easily, but it does suggest an absentee landlord.
Lunch at Johnny B's soda shop. Interesting take on a club sandwich -- including pickles and onion, with American cheese. The Sunset Limited passed through, going east, as we were eating. We'll be on that same train in just three days' time.
Quick stroll around downtown -- shock at Pitaya Verde's Rodeo Drive prices, but quite pleased to pick up a few good used books at the local book store. More than a little put out by French Co. Grocer's $50 minimum purchase on a credit or debit card -- or they'll add the service fee to your bill! So, they lost a $30 sale -- I don't give in to such extortion. Shall I report them? Probably. It's a blatant violation of their agreement. Such unethical behavior offends me. If they don't want to abide by the terms of the agreement, then just don't take the cards. Many other shops in Marathon don't.
I scheduled Marathon as an R&R stop for me, a chance to spend a day not driving, so after lunch I sprawled on the bed with my books and Mike went out to make movie history. When he came back, he told me that another couple and their adult daughter had arrived. They just grunted when he greeted them and hurried up to their rooms. Americans really don't understand the B&B culture -- and it's still a B&B, even if they don't serve the B.
Our final big blow-out evening. Retrenchment now in order. Drinks first at the White Buffalo bar, then dinner at the Gage Hotel restaurant. Good food, but nothing on the Starlight Theatre. Mike was mad for the cow skull lamps and the cowhide chairs. I made the mistake of ordering their "famous" chicken fried steak. Well-prepared, but it was enough for four people! I ate what I wanted, and left the rest. We need to cut back on more than just the money we're spending on food.
Awakened around 5:00 by other guests tramping around. I found all of the lights on and the front door open when I went down. Not just unlocked, but open. We were told when we picked up the keys to make certain that we locked that door when we went out. The same people who gave Mike the cold shoulder yesterday, so I guess it's no surprise. There's another car in the parking area, so there must be another guest, but a very quiet one.
Tuesday, December 28 -- Breakfast this morning at Shirley's Burnt Biscuit, which is highly rated on several websites. The reason for the press escapes me. The biscuits and gravy were excellent, but everything else had been made in advance and stored in a refrigerated case. Want a breakfast croissant? Help yourself from the fridge. Want it hot? Pop it in the microwave. Uh, no. We waited -- and waited -- for the cinnamon rolls to come out of the oven. Again, quite nice, but nothing to rave about. While we waited, we wandered through the "antique" store in the other half of the building, and choked at the prices. Maybe we're spoiled by Denham Springs. Most of what they were selling wasn't antique, anyway. It wasn't even old. Lots of Chinese and Indian imports; a stack of acrylic crocheted afghans ($50?!?!?); soaps and hand lotions, with a smattering of old china tea cups and saucers and some old flatware that should have been sterling at those prices.
The other guest had gone by the time we returned. Judging from the magazine left on the table, he? -- she? -- they? -- were Chinese. I wonder if they were visiting Big Bend? I hardly think they'd come all the way from China just to visit Marathon!
Marcy, the housekeeper, was doing the rooms. Mike mentioned to her that we were thinking of buying the Inn (Oh? Really?) and she could not have been more excited. She insisted on giving us the grand tour, including the remodeled carriage house (if we did buy it, that bathroom would be the first thing we upgraded!), and the honeymoon suite with jacuzzi under the stairs (hmmm -- a Harry Potter themed room, where magic can happen?). Seems that at one time it was a bonafide B&B, and she made the breakfasts, and would like nothing better than for those days to return. I didn't have the heart to tell her that the only way we'd be able to make a go of it would be to do all of the work ourselves.
Lunch again at Johnny B's. Godawful ham and cheese -- thin sliced ham and American cheese -- on white bread. The small town life is loosing its charm. Very friendly people for the most part, but . . . We fed bits of Mike's chicken strips to a black and white cat and missed our kitties.
Another couple was just unloading their suitcases and large dog from their SUV when we got back. Mike mentioned to them that pets were not allowed. They said he (the dog, not Mike) would be spending the night in the car. We'll be watching . . . I guess we're feeling somewhat proprietary.
I spent most of the afternoon snoozing and reading, while Mike wandered farther afield to film some of the unique sights of Marathon, including a goat in an abandoned hotel.
A disappointing meal at Famous Burro. Despite the name, it does not serve burritos, or any kind of Mexican food. I ended up with tilapia while Mike had brisket -- the pulled pork had not yet been pulled. It does have a great atmosphere, though, with locals dropping in for a drink at the bar on their way home, and we really like the vintage gas station architecture.
Just one more day before we get the train to go home -- and not a day too soon. In fact, if we had driven, I think we would have headed home this morning. We've had a lovely trip, and now we want to go home. On the other hand, El Cosmico awaits.
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