Big Bend and Environs, Days 1 & 2 : Lafayette to Marfa

If we count travel -- and since we were on the train, why not? -- then Day 1 was Wednesday, December 22. Very thankful that I listened to Mike and drove out to Lafayette the week before to check on the station and parking situation -- using our new GPS whom we have named "Darlene."

Still don't know whether the empty lot across the street from the station is for Amtrak parking, but wouldn't have left the car there even if it were. Dropped Mike and the luggage off and took the car to the nearest public garage, and there encountered my first adventure. As I pulled in, I noticed the sign, and had the sense to ask, "How short is "short-term?" The attendant informed me that I'd have to pay in advance for 10 days. This took much longer than it needed to, as he was constantly stopping to let cars out, and then asking me for the information I had just given him -- and that he had written down! He eventually explained that he had suffered a stroke, and had only recently returned to work. All was finally resolved, and I walked back to the train station, with something like an hour and a half to spare, but better early than late.

The train was on time, and we were soon established in our roomette, where I luxuriated in being carried along without having to attend to the road. Dinner delivered to us in our roomette -- a bit cramped, but we were able to eat our steak (New York strip) and sip our merlot in private. Shortly afterward, the porter made up our beds and we were down and out by 8:30! This was only the first of many early nights. Neither of us sleeps especially well on trains, but we certainly do better in a roomette than we would reclining in a coach seat. Mike claims that he didn't "sleep at all," but he wasn't nearly cranky enough the next day for me to believe that. Besides, I know his sleep breathing.

Really, other than a somewhat supercilious dining car attendant, who clearly thinks he's clever and witty and is clearly wrong, the trip was pleasant and relaxing and over too soon. I could easily have ridden another day or two, just reading and looking at the scenery and being called to meals or having them delivered to us in our roomette.

Train travel is no longer as glamorous as it once was, but it is still more human than air travel. We could walk through the train at our leisure, visit the (ahem) facilities, sit in the observation car, sipping a drink from the bar, never once told to return to our seats and fasten our seat belts. And when we were tired of the public, we could retire to the privacy of our very own roomette. The dishes may be plastic and the tablecloths paper, but there are dishes and there are tablecloths and there is real food cooked to order. The napkins, by the way, are still cloth and the flatware, while not silver, is at least stainless steel. Even those lowly travelers in coach are permitted to purchase a meal and eat it in the dining car, if they chose not to eat in the cafe car. Meals are included in the cost of the room or roomette -- both are considered "first class", although I'd have to say that roomettes are more on the order of 1.5 class.

Awake about 5:00 the next morning, but no cats to let out. Was lucky enough to get the shower on my second try. We decided to save ourselves time by putting up the beds ourselves. Breakfast in the dining car when it opened about 6:30. I succumbed to temptation and had the Classic Railroad French Toast with blueberry compote. Then back to our roomette and more lounging and sightseeing until time for lunch. We'd made an early reservation, since we'd eaten so early and were departing the train about 1:30.
We heard at lunch that a passenger was left behind at Del Rio. It was one of the scheduled 10-minute "smoking stops," and we'd all been warned to stay on the platform near the train. Apparently he had decided to ignore that warning and take a stroll. Rumor has it that he expected the train to wait for him.
Trains come through every other day, so his choices were to stay in Del Rio for 2 nights (sans luggage), pay $300 plus in cab fare to try to catch the train at the next stop of Sanderson, or convince someone to come out and get him. I sure hope he enjoyed that cigarette. We'd gone into the station to look for an ATM (with no success), but no farther.
That was also the stop where Santa was handing out candy canes to the passengers. He got on the train with us, and did the same thing at least as far as Alpine. A nice touch that added to the holiday atmosphere.
The train passed over Lake Amistad immediately after Del Rio. Rather ironic name these days when most of the border crossings are closed and tourists are warned against entering Mexico at the few that are open. Then over the Pecos River Bridge, said by our conductor to be the highest railroad bridge in the U.S., and past Langtry, home of "Judge" Roy Bean (yes, he was a genuine historical figure, if not quite as good looking as Paul Newman). I suppose it depends on how you define "bridge." In any case, the bridge is close to 300 feet high, and we got a splendid view of the river and some of its canyons.

Lunch in the dining car again -- I can highly recommend the black bean chipotle burger -- and into Alpine about half an hour early.

The rental car was waiting for us at the station, but no agent, probably because the train was early. Of all the paperwork that I brought, I'd forgotten that particular confirmation e-mail. Mike walked across the street to find a phone, and the nice lady in Ivey's Emporium let him use her phone. The agent was there in a few minutes, I signed the forms (and declined all forms of additional insurance; I like to live on the edge), we powered up Darlene, and were soon on our way to Marfa and the Hotel Paisano.

Film buffs will recognize Marfa as the location of the shooting of the 1956 epic "Giant." The stars and some of the crew were housed at the Hotel Paisano. While we did not reserve the Liz Taylor or Rock Hudson suite, we cherish the thought that we slept in the same room as a cameraman or assistant director. The hotel is on both the National and State Historical Registers, and deservedly so. It is an absolutely spectacular example of pre-WWII Texas Mission-style architecture by Henry Trost. The lobby alone is worth the trip. It's tiled, with beamed ceilings, original (or reproduction) oak and leather furniture, and French windows looking out into the courtyard, with its 4-tier cast iron reticulated fountain. Our room on the 2nd floor looked onto the courtyard, with French windows opening onto a tiny balcony, about 2 feet deep, with wrought-iron rail. The bathroom was, for the most part, original. Sadly, the rooms have been redecorated in American Standard Motel. We had a few issues with the plumbing (the cold water handle in the shower came off in my hand and the shower head itself desperately wants either cleaning or replacing), but were assured that they were working on it. The major drawback is the lack of an elevator, but my big, strong husband managed the large suitcases.
Strolled around Marfa, where Mike had a second lunch of Marfalafel at the Food Shark. I had a taste, and don't understand what the fuss is, although perhaps it is exotic for west Texas. Tried to visit the Presidio County Courthouse, but it was closed. I was struck by its similarity to Reata in "Giant." I know that the house is based on the Waggoner Mansion, but perhaps Boris Leven integrated aspects of more than one building.
I spent the rest of the afternoon reading in the room while Mike wandered around filming Marfa.
Then we both got all dolled up -- me in black satin pants! -- and went down to Jett's Grill for our first fine dining experience on this trip.
What a let-down! Call me naive, but I expected a restaurant called "Jett's Grill" to feature Tex-Mex cuisine -- modern or traditional -- or in some other way celebrate the movie. What I didn't expect was a "fine dining" restaurant (based on the menu and prices) that includes a bar and big screen t.v. Our recommended "reservation" resulted in nothing more than "Sit wherever you like." The food is acceptable, but overpriced for what it is.The salmon on the menu had been replaced with seared tuna (soooo 2000, and as those who know me are aware, I am not a fan of raw fish, regardless of what it's called), so I opted for the cilantro lime chicken. More lime than cilantro, and could have used a bit of jalapeno, but at least it wasn't overcooked. Mashed potatoes and green beans, nothing to write home about. The creme brulee, however, was perfection. Smooth, thick, cold creme with a crisp, caramelized topping that had been created using a blowtorch, not a broiler -- and big enough that I didn't want another.